Keeping in mind a previous pleased vacation on the Aegean Islands, I persuaded my better half that a trip there would make up entirely of fine food and drink, pristine landscapes and friendly residents. Life proceeds and things had changed somewhat. Fish are practically entirely missing from the menu now.
The Greeks appear to have a problem managing the activities of a country comprised of fishermen either amateur of professional. You can not step in a puddle without tripping over a frogman with a speargun, and some enterprising captains of fishing vessels have required to using dynamite to ensure that their quota is kept.
Remaining over an additional day in one town even if the fleet was returning, we joined the resulting melee at the local fishmongers in order to fight for our share of fish. Adequately scrambled and elbowed by a vicious crowd of black cloaked widows, we retreated to a café and had an omelet. Returning a few hours later we existed by an assortment of fish the size and colour of a normal exotic fish collection and some unfortunate sardines the size of whitebait. We abandoned the concept of roasting fresh fish over a beach fire throughout.
We had chosen to explore completely by public transportation and the notorious Greek ferries around the Ionian islands. Alternating sleeping out on beaches with hotels. This being towards the end of the season the services were more sporadic than typical. Reaching one bustling little harbour we disembarked and the ferryboat moved off immediately.
Within minutes everybody had leapt into their good friends and relatives cars leaving us deserted and isolated with the faint recollection of a map which had revealed a ten mile hike to civilization. Just as we were getting onto the subject of greek islands map divorce a fisherman showed up and conserved the day by letting us share the business of his catch in the back of his van.
Braking with our promise we did decide to hire a motorcycle which I considered safe adequate to drive on the basis that it might not accomplish in excess of fifteen miles per hour. This was likewise I thought an enough speed constraint to make up for that the brake pedal was found under the engine due to a previous accident. Resorting to the stone age I found a suitably shaped rock which connected to the pedal provided sufficient access if we need to find ourselves going downhill with a tailwind.
Getting here in a suitably separated area we set up makeshift camp in our private paradise only to be provided with the unusual sight of a blond haired woman, a dark haired horse and a mousey brown haired pet approaching along the beach. This twenty 6 years of age woman had been residing in a cave at the end of the beach for the previous two years. In discussion we found that she had actually purchased the horse in Albania for the express purpose of supplying transport to and from the bar a mile or so away.
For her, the horse had a thing about drink driving and would unceremoniously discard her on the ground should she try to install it in a state of intoxication.
On a see into town we were joined for dinner by an unwanted guest who we had run into briefly in the town. He seemed enjoyable enough then, however a couple of drinks had changed him into a reincarnation of any variety of Greek philosophers.
The Greek islands still do look pristine from a range, regrettably closer evaluation exposes the uncontrolled exploitation of natural resources and the change of mindsets in a naturally gregarious people triggered by exposure to mass tourist.